Baan Dam Museum

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About Baan Dam Museum

Thawan Duchanee, a renowned Thai contemporary painter, architect, and sculptor, left an indelible mark on the world of art and architecture. His most notable architectural masterpiece is the Black House, or 'Baan Dam' in Thai. This was Duchanee's residence until his death, and it is far from being a typical house. Instead, it is a collection of around 40 buildings of varying shapes and sizes, scattered across a tranquil garden.

The Black House is a testament to Duchanee's diverse artistic talents. The grounds are home to nearly 40 small black houses, constructed from a variety of materials including wood, glass, concrete, bricks, and terracotta. Each house boasts a unique style and design, with several showcasing influences from Balinese and Burmese architecture, as well as art dating back to the Ayutthaya Period.

The houses serve as a repository for Duchanee's extensive collection of art and artifacts. Visitors can explore his paintings, sculptures, and a vast array of items from around the world, including animal bones, skins, horns, and silver and gold objects. The artist drew inspiration from bones for his paintings, making the Black House a fascinating, albeit not particularly animal-friendly, destination. The site also displays a variety of baskets and drums from various regions and countries. However, not all exhibits are open to the public.

Despite its artistic appeal, the Black House has received mixed feedback from visitors. Some have praised it as a unique art exhibition, with its black-themed art standing out as particularly special. The entrance fee of 80 Baht is considered reasonable for the experience it offers. However, some visitors have found the staff to be unfriendly, which has somewhat marred their experience.

Others have criticized the Black House for its poor lighting and lack of variation in design and props across the houses. Some have even suggested that the Black House seems more like a storage space for Duchanee's art pieces rather than a well-planned museum. The presence of insects and the hot weather have also been points of contention for some visitors.

Despite these criticisms, the Black House remains a popular attraction in Chiang Rai. It is often included in tours from Chiang Mai, and many visitors appreciate its uniqueness and the opportunity to see Duchanee's paintings and other artworks. The site also offers a few amenities, such as drinks stalls and a market, and visitors can even try charcoal (black) ice cream.

The Black House, also known as BaanDam, is located about 12 km from Chiang Rai and is often compared to the White Temple. The theme of the exhibits leans towards 'Black and Death', with animal bones and skins featuring prominently. Visitors can stroll around the garden and peek into the buildings, although they are not allowed to enter all of them. The site is generally shady, providing some respite from the heat.

The Black House is more than just a museum; it is an interesting work of art in itself. Duchanee's fascination with the color black and unusual objects like cow horns, alligator skins, and wooden carved man genitals is evident throughout the site. The experience is further enhanced by the opportunity to try the unique charcoal ice cream.

However, visitors should be aware that the Black House is not a temple, as its name might suggest. It is more of an art installation with a strong erotic component. While it is an interesting and worthwhile visit, some parents might feel uncomfortable bringing their children here due to the explicit nature of some exhibits. Despite this, the Black House remains a testament to Thawan Duchanee's artistic prowess and a unique destination for art and architecture enthusiasts.